Hawaiian Surfing Adventures did a quick presentation during our orientation breakfast last Friday and since they promised "safe, shallow, sandy beach" surfing, we decided to try it out. We got about a two-hour lesson from a 23-year young surfer dude, nicknamed Moose. Probably a play on his real name 'cuz physically he wasn't a moose kind of guy. His real name, unfortunately, was very difficult and I have no idea how to spell it, so we're sticking with Moose.
I have to tell you, I had no idea how physically demanding surfing would be. I am TIRED tonight, and we were only in the water for two hours. Paddle out, nose into the wave, and then when you're past the breakers, watch the 'line' and pick your wave (Moose did the picking) from about 30-40 yards out. Then you turn your board's nose to the shore and begin to paddle gently, then hard. When you feel the wave pushing you, paddle very hard, when the tail dips just a little, stand up and ride it in. Simple. Yeah.
To my credit, I did stand all the way up and ride a wave all the way in (once) and rode a second one almost all the way in. Two hours, 1 1/2 successful attempts. Many spills. And now I understand why board shorts are only sold with strings to tie the waist on. That's all I am going to say about that. Di did well too, getting up at least once, though she rode in on her knees (cheater). ;-)
My one successful ride in - not very graceful, but I made it!
Thank goodness Di was on shore to capture it.
Thank goodness Di was on shore to capture it.
Both of us have bruises on our ribs from laying on the board and very sore shoulders from all the paddling. I have the additional bonus of blisters on the top of most of my toes from the rubberized coating on the board and a bruise on my ribcage from getting my board sideways when a breaker came in hard right after I got up from a spill. The ocean doesn't always play nice, I notice.
All in all, a very fun day. We're thinking seriously of renting boards again next week. We can get a board for a full day for only $15 if we rent from the same outfit. Hey...you only live once!
Tomorrow is another early morning for us as we are going on our 2nd (and last, at least for this trip) scuba trip with Fathom Five.
Aloha!
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